As previously noted, remove the door release handle you use to open the door from the outside 2 torques screws. Luckily I counted to 10 before grabbing the Johnson Bar and looked under the reflector otherwise the armrest would be in pieces! If I still had my truck it would make this a lot easier for me to remember. Remove the two or is it three? If the door was stuck in the shut position like mine, I was able to pull out the panel just enough on the door side not the hing side , and then reach into the door and pull up on the rod that operates the latches. Scabs, similar procedure for the window control switch. I knew there had to be another screw somewhere and believed it was under the arm rest. How do you take the door apart? Now taking the top latch off I got two of the three torques bolts out but the bottom one won't budge. The kit is pretty affordable too! Mine were just dirty and seem to be working fine now.
After removing, with the door closed of course, there is a gap that allows you to view inside the door. On my truck there are no switches in the back doors. Ask Your Own Ford Question. I used your video to replace all four lock actuators on my Ford F350. It worked the door opened. I assume it will require me to take the panel off from.
Door would not open so I tried just pulling the cable to the side and making it a tighter pull. I took the remains of my broken clip to my local auto parts store O'Reilly Auto Part , and they had the replacement. Regular cabs, this does not apply. You now can see into the latch area and put the handle back into the slot where it came out of. Ford used no retainer on these handles and after prolonged use, they bend and the handle can be pulled off.
I went to 4 parts stores and none of them knew wtf I was talking about, one wanted to sell me a handle how does handle and clip sound even close? Remove reflector, pop out with a flat head screw driver. I have an 02 SuperCab which has the rear doors that can only be opened with the main door open. You may need to file the slot opening to achieve a perfect fit between the bracket slot and the cable end. Watch to see what lever it tries to move. Remove small armrest section to the right of interior door handle, pop up with a screw driver. To fix, I used duct tape to hold it in place.
I use the platform for carring wood projects, extra power tools, and the dog and cat while traveling. If you have the four-door cab, try it on the passenger side first to see how it works. I still haven't replaced mine, the door rattles a bit, but it opens. If you don't want extras, just search on lock rod clip and specify your year, make and model. I figured it out The switch is located on the latching mechanism of the driver and passenger door. Wouldn't do this with a ratchet as you'll end up with a handful of ratchet parts. You can check that it is in all the way by looking through the slot in the ferrule.
Remove the resessed cup around the door handle. The more it's used, the higher the interval rate goes up. Remove interior plastic section behind mirror, this is the section that matches up with the dashboard when the door is closed. What happens is the door cables in Ford Trucks F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger and Ford Vans F-150, F-250, F-350 have plastic ends that keep the cables fastened in the door cable latches, and these ends corrode and break over time. In the link below they are shown as Item E With the window all the way down, carefully use a long flat tip screwdriver, to push down on the lever for the door latch mechanism, to open the door. When a person goes to open the door, they will lift up on the door handle and the door won't open because the plastic cable end is broken.
Reassemble everything and you're done. To fix, I used duct tape to hold it in place. Remove the two or is it three? After the cable is completely in the cable ferrule, push the black rubber sleeve into the ferrule as far as it will go. Use a small flat head screw driver or needle nose pliers to squeeze the plastic splines out of the way while pushing or pulling through the hole. First remove the two screws on the arm rest. If still having trouble you can gently widen the slot with a flat blade screwdriver and hammer 6 Repeat the process for the other end. Course you have to do this before its stripped out.
My passenger side rear door wont open on the bottom. They have a design flaw, basically when you pull the handle it pushes a piece that pivots and in turn pushes a linkage rod downward that actuates the door latch, well that pivot point is the weak spot, the pin that it hinges on is too small and will break, I found the pivot piece and the linkage rod laying in the bottom of the door If you pull the door panel off their are 2 nuts holding the door handle on, take those off and the door handle will come off, the pivot pin is on then inside of the door handle, what I did was to drill a hole and put a small self tapping screw in to replace the pivot pin, and hold the pivot piece and linkage in place then put it all back through the door handle hole in the door, and set the linkage down in it's hole in the door latch assembly. If you take the panel off the door, you can probably push the rod that opens the door by hand. Thanks, Matt I appreciate the answers. Now there is another metal cover over the latch mechanism under this panel. Can this be done without the door open? It rotates out of the way.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions and access other forum features. Much cheaper than the latches or cables from Ford. Drill it out or what? The rod will raise maybe a quarter inch or less. There are a number of steps necessary to remove the mechanism from the door. Thanks in advance for any helpful info! Help pry it with a screwdriver.
I still haven't replaced mine, the door rattles a bit, but it opens. These handles just need adjusted after awhile. Let me go look, its been a while. Can someone tell me exactly how the switches work, where are they located, top or bottom, main door or back door? That's the lever you have to move Down, with the flat tip screwdriver. I also found it much easier to correctly position the rod and clip by removing the two nuts holding the latch assembly to the door so that I could more easily remove the remaining piece of the old plastic clip and then get new clip and the rod correctly attached.