As of right now the stock style gaskets are going in. Insert the crank tool 11 in 2470. The vacuum line from the purge valve leads down to the lower area under the intake mounting bracket--from looking at your pic above it seems so anyway---just to the other side is the vacuum hose that comes from the jet sucking valve that controls the vacuum to your brake booster--the vac line from the purge valve is the only piece that I haven't replaced a vacuum hose as of yet--couldn't figure how or where it hooked up--your pic may have helped me though--- Question--how much boost can your s-charger develop---was wondering if you used a thicker head gasket--say of dead soft copper --there by lowering compression in the cylinders--you could raise the boost and develop more power---there are a number of companies that make head gaskets like that for that very purpose. I hope to have at the machine shop on Friday. Radiator caps generally have blow off pressures between 1bar and 2 bar.
And the line that runs across the engine subframe will need to be unbolted from it. All the proper tools and Bentley manuals will be used. Tighten the connecting rod bolts with special tool 00 9 120 or special tool 11 2 110. . Read the next instruction before you begin loosening.
You are now finished with the intake cam installation. If the E1 cap does not rise equally each time you loosen the nuts at E4 and E6, stop and find out why. Release cylinder head bolts from outside to inside in sequence 14 to 1. Keep us in the loop---your right on track with it all--wish I hads me one of those shiney things to hook up----I noticed above the head gasket was coming apart in layers--was that right--with the valves and that gasket--looks like you jumped in at the right time--you'll have another 150k miles to go now--- Question--on your intake--where does the hose from the purge valve hook up on the intake that is--Keep up the good work and pics There was some leakage through or around the gasket. Low octane a bad tank of fuel is often a danger especially in a vehicle without a closed loop oxygen sensor.
Remove the lid from the wiring centre. Modern vehicles use thermostats in conjunction with electric or temperature activated fans so the cooling system works at a regulated temperature, the gauge is not really showing what is happening around the combustion chamber which is of the most importance. Remove the F-connector with both hoses still connected from the air intake boot. Use a wrench or ratchet at E4 and E6, finger tighten only at E1. Clean sealing faces of cylinder head and engine block; if necessary, remove traces of gasket with hardwood spatula.
There was a little spring loaded ball in the socket that broke shortly after starting. Any fuel with an octane rating of 90 performs like a test fuel of 90% Iso octane 10% n-heptane. There is no proper drain plug for the power steering fluid and it will go everywhere. Once detonation sets on, cylinder pressures and temperatures escalate rapidly. Loosen lower right side hose clamp at the radiator, disconnect hose and drain coolant into bucket beneath. Going to switch to something. The car has never overheated.
It's getting cleaned, new cold weather oil separator, throttle body, vacuum hoses. I have the cam locking tool, but didn't use it. So make sure your radiator cap stays on! If followed correctly, it is nearly impossible to break a cam. Removing the secondary timing chain guide. The goal is to keep an eye on both sides of all 3 caps, and adjust your tightening slightly as you go to keep all gaps equal.
Damn, fouled plugs after 20,000 miles. I found no reference to it in the manual. After all the caps have been lightly tightened you can go back and torque them all to 14Nm-10. Connecting rods and bearing caps marked with the same numbers in the selection of a pair and must be installed together. Read the next instruction before you begin loosening. Use cylinder head bolts only once. Never assume that just because your radiator is not leaking that it is in 100% working order.
Ensure you wrap the ends before removal as the fluid will drip everywhere otherwise. Production gaskets will let go under these conditions every time, just like the example shown. By leaving the cap in place, it gives you an easy visual verification of whether the end of the cam is rising equally to the caps at E4 and E6. I really wanted to do it properly. No just to set the vanos timing.
The pic comes from page 13 where the engine is pulled and rebuilt. Move with the piston rod in the direction of the cylinder head and remove the parts. The clearance between the piston and the bore in the cylinder block. You may need to use a penlight to see well enough. Disconnecting the engine took me 3. By 160days, you have fuel for your lawnmower. Bore is 84 mm 3.